Malawi 2013

We sat down with our friends one Sunday afternoon, from Groblesdal Frans and Denise Eksteen (mad friends I may add…. 🙂 ) some two months ago and we decided we all need a nice break……! Yes please!!! And quickly settled on destination Lake Malawi.

Round trip from Jhb – Malawi – Jhb = 4200km

Vehicle 2008 Toyota Fortuner 3.0 D4D.4X4.

And it was decided no kids…..which in inself was quite a challenge as most of them are still at school and very active with sport and, and, and…..the things kids do!

: The route

We left for the dreaded Beitbridge SA / Zimbabwe’s border post (18/04/2013) S22 13.524 E29 59.179 , and within 45 minutes we were in Zimbabwe (Gods Country)

: Limpopo river

We headed for our first sleep-over, Elephant & Lion Lodge 80km from Beitbridge (S21 42.333 E30 29.996). It was by no means easy driving as there are many overloaded vehicles and heavily loaded trucks heading North! LOTS!!!

: Pitstop / break

: Zim 1 US$ toll gate

Zim is known to have “many” police checkpoints along all major routs, so best keep to the speedlimit at all times. Checkpoints are commonly found every 25km’s which adds extra travel time, so keep this in mind! Speed limit is 100km/h on the open road and 60km/h in urban area’s.

Our stay at Elephant & Lion was pleasant, rooms were clean and the food was good. Double room was 58 US$ and for dinner had kudu steaks!

Camping facilities are available at E & L, basic and rustic!

The following morning after a good cuppa we headed for Mutare (S18 59.360 E32 39.347) where we would cross into Mozambique and sleep over at Manica (S18 56.240 E32 52.884)

On route coffee and some breakkie!

Back on the road and more familiar scenes……

Fuel petrol and diesel was freely available @ US$ 1.40 p/l

Birchenough Bridge – over thr Save river, Impressive!!! (S19 57.742 E32 20.576)

Mutare, is a fairly large town. Here you can stock up with whatever from clothes to food!

After filling up with diesel we headed for the Zim / Moz border.

Border post:

The border crossing was pretty painless and we headed for Manica where we would have supper and sleep over at the Manica Lodge (S18 56.446 E32 52.070) There are about 3/4 places one can over-night.

Like Frans would say: “In sy moer gebliksem!!!”

Manica Lodge: Cost was US$ 63 per double room.

Frans looking good after some cold 2M……LOL!!!

The next day we headed for Tete: (S16 09.477 E33 35.434)

Leaving Manica:

Charcoal available along the road

Creative advertising honey and charcoal:

Another one, in sy moer gebliksem!!!

The road was good, however 80km before Tete lots of potholes were all over the road. Dodging donkey carts, trucks, cars and guys on motorbikes!

Here trucks have right of way!!!

Tete is a hussle and bustle town, and one of two crossing points from South to North in Mozambique, crossing the mighty Zambezi.

We stopped at “VIP” for some lovely pizza and bought some fresh rolls they bake daily!

Prior to our departure I had made contact with Thinus who works in Tete in the mining industry. He was kind enough to contact me as he heard we were passing through. Accommodation in Tete is scarce, camping non- existent, but with the help of Thinus he managed to accommodate us on his premises. He is in the process of building a lovely secure area for travellers passing through. Rustic, clean, lots of shade to pitch a tent! You can contact him via email to make arrangements. thinusk@multotec.co.za

Campsite in progress with lots of shade: Campsite Tete, Thinus S16 07.013 E33 41.871

We could have easily kuiered there for another 2 days, as Thinus had lots to tell about his over landing experience! But sadly we had to move on .

We filled up with fuel in Tete as we heard there was a shortage in Malawi, so we did not want to risk being forced to buy at on the B-Market @ R33.00 p/l……!

Just outside of town a common police roadblock

We saw literally 1000’s of these trucks loaded heading towards Beira. Apparently for the Chinese!!!

Thinus had warned us of the next 100km stretch road condition and said it would be pretty rough, and he was so right!!!

Vehicles wiggling over the road everywhere for 100km took almost 3 hours….

We then finally arrived at the Moz / Malawi border post

Upon arrival….same as last time you will have about 15 runners assisting you, happy to take you money! If possible have Quachas available beforehand. You will need 25 000 Quachas for Tip and road insurance which equates to about R630.00

After which felt like forever approx.. 1 hour we were in Malawi

We headed straight for Cape Mac Clear (S14 01.685 E34 50.175) where we had arranged one nights accommodation before departing for Domwe Island the following morning.

Roadside furniture store…

And butchery!

The roads were in good condition, careful of the pedestrians!!!

When you see this sign, you know you are close!!! :)—–>

There are two Islands you can inhabit, Domwe and Mambo

Mambo is full board and Domwe self catering. We opted to stay on Domwe for 4 nights. Bookings can only be made via Kayak Africa: http://www.kayakafrica.co.za/index.php?page=5:Kayak%20Africa%20Homepage

On Domwe there are x3 full tents and x2 campsites. We had the island to ourselves! There is a kitchen with pots, pans, cutlery gas stoves and a gas fridge. Drinks are available and recorded on an honesty basis booklet. Fresh water and ice is provided. Rustic toilet and shower and a dining table on the deck.

There are x2 helpers on the island that will assist you with hot water and anything els you require. They have a two way radio on the island and can make contact with land should it be required. Snorkeling gear and kayak’s are for hire should you not have your own.

Take some extra food along for the workers, they appreciate it !!!

On route to Cape Mac Clear, which by the way is a nature reserve:

What we had come for……!!! And the weather was great

We spent the rest of the afternoon there and went for a walk in the local village

Our supper arrived which we had for dinner, prepared by the chef!

The village was quier as it was low season for them, however the local market was in full swing and with curio’s and fresh veggies available.

We were then treated to a typical, spectacular sunset !!!

The following morning after a healthy breakky, we got our things together and ready to board for Domwe

Waiting for our transfer to Domwe

And Off we went!!

After a quick off-load we were shown to our safari tents!

I was quite surprised to hear that “Curio, 72 years old” was still working on the island. What would the chance be that he would recognise us…..well I was 100% wrong. He greeted us with open arms literally!!!

Boat leaving for Mambo

Quick Swim!

Dining Room

So we just chilled for the rest of the day and soaked in the beauty!

The Sun started fading and the fires were Lit!!!

Curio Kindly lit the fires for us every night!

We had a lovely supper and later every evening the local civet comes for some leftovers..

Sunrise and once again a beautiful day!!!

Local fisherman returning from their evenings catch

The routine was pretty much like, wake up, have coffee, go snorkeling have breakkie, snorkel, afternoon nap, supper and sleep.

That evening we were treated do a spectacular lightning display!!

The following morning another beautiful day!

Danelle Calling the Girls…

View from the look-out point

Back to Eating again…

The ladies prepared a nice meal for us hard working people….

Cat Was Back

View from our tent, the weather was a bit overcast and windy, however did not bother us as we were there to relax!

Bathroom and shower

The call of the fish eagle really was special!

Breakkie, with fresh rolls baked

Departure time…….

All good thing have to come to an end and we said our good buy’s! To Curio and this staff for looking after us !!! Their house

Dining Room

Kitchen

Our transfer arriving

Must admit it was a sad moment leaving……but we would certainly return again 🙂

We packed the vehicle and headed for Cape Mac Clear, as I heard the Ilala had docked and wanted to have a look and get further information….

MV Ilala, formally Ilala II, is a motor ship that has plied Lake Malawi in East Africa since 1951.[2] She is operated by Malawi Lake Services and based in Monkey Bay, Malawi (on the southern end of the lake);[2] every week she crosses the lake all the way north to Chilumba, Malawi, near Tanzania (about 300 miles (480 km) from Monkey Bay)[2] and then returns to Monkey Bay. She carries both passengers and freight, and calls at major towns on both the Malawian and Mozambican coast, as well as at the two inhabited islands of the lake (Likoma and Chizumulu). While the ship is often late (reportedly by as much as 24 hours or more)[3] and has sometimes broken down[4] she remains the most important means of long-distance transport for the people living on the coast of the lake.[2] She is 172 feet (52 m) long overall, has a gross tonnage of 620 tons and can accommodate up to 365 passengers and 100 tons of cargo.

More here:

http://www.wawamalawi.com/malawilakeferry

Today the locals use the ship as public transport. I spoke to the captain who gave me all the various “class” options you can travel on. A max of 3/4 vehicles are allowed. Next on our to do list, for sure!!!

We drove through the town, which is not much. Everything evolves around the harbour. Lots of little roadside shops

Then we spotted this little shop……yummy, just what the doc ordered! And Frans went mad….lol!!!

I am not so sure if he bought the toys for his son……or……himself…???

Anyway, we had good fun negotiating with them, as always

We headed back for Tete and the initial plan was to sleep over at Thinus….if he would let us in….he,he,he!!! But we got to Tete quite early and decided to sleep over at Manica.

……..well that was a bit of a disaster as we only arrived at Manica @ 23h00. The driving was tuff, trucks with no lights, donkey carts, guys on motorbikes with no lights……how they manage to stay alive is a wonder!!! Finding a place to sleep at 23h00 in Manica proved to be a bit of a challenge, however at 23h45 we opted for the Manica Hotel @ 75 US$ WHICH SEEMED LIKE A BARGAIN! Oh yes, breakfast included…yeah right in your dreams! Breakfast was a cup of Frisco and a roll, without butter! We laughed and headed for Zim.

The following morning we stopped in Mutare (nice town btw) for a good healthy breakkie!!! “You’re Welcome”!