Namibia – Kaokoland OOOODS / OOOOMS 2009/10

Well here goes another trip report, but with a difference….Our journey started in Jhb, unplanned as we only decided 5 days before departing to go, while visiting some friends in Pta. They (Zieg and Debbie Bokkelman) were going to travel alone and asked us again to come along, So OOOODS convinced me within 30mins and ya, time was short.As we are 75% packed at all times, I only had a few alterations to do to the van(Sweetie), as we usually take the off-road trailer along, but not on this trip.OOOODS went shopping with a list and I attended to the alterations to the van.Our plan was to drive off the beaten track, riverbed driving as many as possible, many not on general maps.

– Time for the trip: 24 days
– Total round trip 6551km
– Average fuel consumption Tar / Sand road 9.4km/l (2.5 D4D DC)
– Average fuel consumption Riverbed driving 7.3km/l
– Fuel, accommodation and permit costs R9300.00 (excluding food and drinks…)

Here is a map of our route as we went along:

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Day 1: Left home and popped @ Bosfark 4×4 track in Noordheuwel where the other Hilux members were playing for the day, just to say cheers.We slept over at my BIL’s farm near Koster and would meet up with Zieg and Debbie in the morning and head for Zeerust. The border was quiet and their insurance department computer was down so we left with a signed piece of paper and a stamp from the Botswana officials.
Coffee 25km before the border post:

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We drove through to Kang 624km from home and camped near the town as there are many places to choose from.

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Day2: Road Trans Kalahari road / highway in very good condition, with lots of cows, goats, sheep, donkey’s and horses on the side or crossing the road, so you have to be quite cautious!

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But quite a boring drive so I decided to take a nap….and OOOODS took advantage of this photo opportunity….

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From Kang(Bots) to the Namibia border post 430km Buitepos. The border quite busy with quite a few SA residents going to Henties Bay or Sakopmund.

From the border, we decided to go through to Windhoek as there is a camp site on the outskirt of town(Arebbusch Travel Lodge(R120p/p children u12 free.

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That evening we dicided to visit the famous Joe’s Beer House in Windhoek before the fun began….

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Zieg tucking into some meat

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Day3: We went shopping in Windhoek and found some interesting buildings here. People were very friendly, most people speak Afrikaans and German. What struck me the most was the country was very tourist friendly and very organised.

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Off we headed to Spreedshoogte where we saw the last of tar road for many, many km :thumbup:

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From Windhoek we decided to go South West to see Spreetzhoogte Pass, well what a beautiful drive not even to mention the scenary! Only 154km very good Namibian sand roads.

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As our tyres were at 2.5 – 3.0bar, we quickly stopped and deflated to 1.7 – 1.8bar

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Beautiful mountains in the distance with a taste of things to come

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Drove past this donkey cart at 100km/h, saw the sign on the back and reversed 100m to take this pic for the forum! Classic :thumbup:

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One see’s 100’s of these trees with huge and small bird nests along the road, so I decided to take a pic!

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Good condition of the roads, always a pleasure to drive on.

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Then finally we got to our long awaited sign-board!

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The pass has a number of viewpoints that took our breath’s away….one of those places you could sit / camp at, for days just staring at the beauty of the valley’s and mountains :!:

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The road after the 2nd view point becomes very steep, and 1st gear low range is required, as you decend into the valley!

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From Spreetzhoogte Pass we travelled to a beautiful little town called Solitaire only 60km. Well I fell in love and so much wanted to spend a day or two there, at the camp site :!:

_________________Solitaire’s entrance to the town just made me feel at home :lol:

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With old classics parked all around the one horse town, embedded in the sand.

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The town consists of a…..

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….inside…..

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…. a bakery which is famous for it’s apple strudle(so get some for desert), garage / bar and a camp site. This is the last reliable fuel station in the area, so be sure you fill up here in Solitaire :wink: before you head for Sossusvlei our next destination :thumbup:

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From Solitaire to Sossusvlei about 90km through the Namib Naukluft Park. This was certainly one of our highlites of the trip! You stay / camp at Sesriem which provides easy access to the dunes, there are a couple of places you can camp at. Many tour operators also camp here, as the best time of the day to visit sthe dunes is at sunrise.

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The road is in very good condition, whith beatiful mountains!

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All the camp sites have 220v power and running water.

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We were there quite early so Kiara(4) quickly did some clothes washing

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We all got to bed early as we had to get up at 04h30 and head into Sossusvlei a 45km drive

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By 05h00 we were all packed up and headed for the dunes :!:

About a 45 minute drive!

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Sunrise, always spectacular

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The drive to the dunes is amazing as the mountains transform into huge dunes

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Within 20 minutes you are surrounded by monster dunes :thumbup:

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They had x2 round 4m swimming pools…..not very clean though.The tar road was in very good condition, I must say. It must have been repaired.
Unfortunately we did not visit the canyon :thumbdown:

as we spent almost the hole day at the dunes…..next time though!
Some more pics of the dunes :thumbup:

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At about 11h00 we had a nice breakkie under some shady tree’s!

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The drive back after breakkie was also spectacular…..

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These are really ‘monster dunes’, walking up them is quite a challenge!!! Onece the sun is up, you will notice how the dunes transform.

Leaving the area was almost sad :!: But glad to have been there :!:

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Next we headed back to Sesriem, through Solitaire and then through the Naukluft Namib (restricted area, permit required)

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Solitaire and then North West in the direction of Walvisbaai. From Solitaire to Walvisbaai is approx. 230km, through the Naukluft Namib, but you drive through the Gaub Pass, small, but beautiful :thumbup:

On route to Gaub Pass saw this entrance board to a farm:

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Flat straight road, still before you enter Naukluft

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And then in the distance you spot something interesting up ahead:

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Literally from nowhere, the little Gaub Pass

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In the middle of the pass there is a very nice picnic spot, so if you have not had breakkie, here is a good place to stop and if you have had breakkie, you can stop for some road-side coffee :thumbup: ….and admire the beauty

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The rock formations, abselutely magnificant! Ok, so I had 3 cups just incase we did not rush hings toooo much 😆

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Our next stop Vogelfederberg where decided to sleep over approx. 57km from Walvisbaai. (incidently, this is where Andy, MD spotted me with my, pink PJ’s in the middle of the desert…. :lol: :lol: :lol: )

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Vogel……whatever from a 600m distance. (permit required)

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Vogelfederberg is approx. 57km from Walvis Bay, it is a solid rock formation in the middle of no where, I and I mean no where. Not much from the distance, but when you get closer…..

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So we decided to camp right here for the night, without a doubt. 4×4 is required to park on the overhang, but that’s the reason we have!!!

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The view, abserlutely spectacular!

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And time for some Namibian lamb ribbetjie

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Kiara enjoying the camera….

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Sunset…

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The following morning we went exploring behind the boulders.

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I spotted a nice incline and headed straight there. OOOODS said ‘Nee man, is jy nou (&*@$$#*) mal?’! But toooooo tempting… :thumbup: 1st gear low range….all the way up! May not seem that high in the pics, but are 480m High!

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So we explored a little more and there were also some camping sites behind.

Off to Walvis bay!

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……sorry guys, hectic schedule lately so here on a Sat night while you are braaing, my 16y old is having a hengse party in my lapa……no comment 30+ aliens here……So off to Walvis Bay, we had not much scheuled here other than driving through and have a quick look around!

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Flamingo’s wading in the water

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…..funny sign at the West side of the harbor

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So off we headed for Swakopmund, where we intended staying for a couple of day’s Walvis Bay – Swakopmund only 35km

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Pleasant drive….along the coast to Swakop

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What a beautiful town, with nice buildings, but first we had to once again fill some rumbling tummy’s with fresh fish. Recommended restaurant right on the beach!!! :thumbup:

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Kiara just loving the prawns :wink:

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Good food and company :thumbup:

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So we decided to book in here! For two nights

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The next day we decided to explore a bit and founf some beatiful restored buildings – very nice busy little town with a lot of visitors from…….ZA

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The next day we decided to drive down the Khan river, from Usakos…..certainly one of the highlights of the trip +- 75km of riverbed driving……stunning, stunning, stunning :!: :!: :!: A must do! :thumbup:

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So early the next morning we set of in the morning fog, not exactly knowing what to expect….we had co-ords of a nice entrance to the canyon (Khan river) off the main road :thumbup:

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And then within a couple of km the scenery started to change. This facinated me the most of the Namibian landscape

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At this point Zieg calls me over the radio and says:
‘Mark, I don’t think you should come in here…….!!!!’
‘Why not…..’ thinking it was a dead end…………’
…..
…..
‘It too beautiful in here……. :lol:

‘

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This was only the start of things to come, for the day :wink:

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Andy, can’t say I saw or was specifically looking for any shells as the unusual rock-formations were spectacular. But I wouldn’t doubt what you are suggesting :wink:

Small little tricky obsticle ahead

but through in no time….

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Back on the planned route again….

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And then for some brunch :thumbup:

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We did not encounter any other vehicles in the riverbed the whole day, now we did see a couple of these? and lots of beezzzzz once I took out the water to wash up……lots!!!
It ain’t a tok-tokkie, not sure what it is called, anyone?

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So after lunch, 1000’s of bee’s had come for a drink at our watertank that was dripping water op the tailgate. Was quite a job trying to convince them that we had to beeee on our way…..also :wave:

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This pic (one of my favorites) you can really see how huge the rockformations are!!!

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Some springbuck roaming around….

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These aaarsstretches (as my mate calls them) were running over 60km/h at one stage.

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From here we drove to….

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…also know as the ‘Welwitchia Drive’ a plant only found in the Namib desert and Angola.

Once out of the Khang riverbed to the Welwitschia drive.The easiest way to describe this place is: ‘like being on the moon’
Read here more about the plant which only grows 1mm per year.. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Welwitschia

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Plant called the ‘dollar’ plant because of the shape of it’s leaves!

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Track remains from the war, lying in the desert

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As the sign says……1500m – 1600m high rock formations. Worth the view! Camping is also available here!

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Office / entrance to the area

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To get an idea of how large these boulders are we placed some towels and OOOODS standing at the top :thumbup:

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Solid rock :lol: :lol: :lol:

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From here we would go to Brandberge

From Sprizkoppe to Brandberg approx. 150km, no guessing why the name Brandberge….

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So we headed for a riverbed…campsite
:thumbup:

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That night it started raining at 02h30…….OOOODS made me move the Lux to higher ground :!: :!: :!:

The next morning for some more river bed driving JUST LOVE IT :thumbup:

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Small spiderweb along the river bed!

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Even some gerry’s roaming around :wink:

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Map of where we are:

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Back on the road again heading for Palmwag….imo….no judge from yourself….park fees heavy, but beautiful in it’s own way :silent:

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Quick fuel…..DIESEL Stop…..petrol finished….. :roll: :roll: :roll: Bennie, jy sou moes gesit en wag het….2 dae tot Maandag…. :silent:

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Stopped for some refreshments(Twyfelfontein Lodge)….nice place if you have $$$

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Here we camped at Van Zyl se Gat!

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The whole day’s driving was rock’s, rock’s……
:thumbdown:

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From here to Ongongo Hot Springs….yeehaaa, what a beautiful place :thumbup:

Ongongo Hot Springs….yeehaaa, what a beautiful place….

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Campsite area, rocky but beautiful!

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Shower / toilets – all campsites have power points.

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Tooooo beautiful :thumbup: :clap:

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From here we would move on to Opuwo, to fill up supplies, fuel and then head to Epupa Falls!

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Off to Opuwo and then Pupa Falls.At Opuwo, there is a Ch$ckers which is well stocked (veggies / beers and and most things) The town is dirty with lots of hawkers….pretty much reminded me of Moz…. :thumbdown:

Here you have to fill up fuel (+ jerry’s) as there is other reliable fuel on route we planned to travel for the next couple of days ( Epupa, Marienfluss, Camp Syncro, Hartmansberge, Serra Cafema, Orupembe, Puros, Sesfontein) Fuel would only be available at Sesfontein again approx. 900km drive. Not sand or tar road Riverbed & 4×4 low range! So ensure your vehicle is capable of driving at least 1400km It so happened that when we got to Sesfontein there was only Diesel….the petrol was finished!!!

Back on route, to Opuwo…beautiful drive though :thumbup:

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Opuwo:

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Epupa Falls Campsite:

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As it was the 24 of Dec we decided to chill here along the Kunene river for 3 days :thumbup:

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Some local visitors!

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Fever-tree

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True to our tradition, Xmas had to be held, in the rooftop tent this year :lol: :lol: :lol:

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Even the squirell’s were happy!

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The Deck, overlooking the falls!

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Followed by a lovely sunset :wink:

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Xmas lunch, with good friends :thumbup:

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Epupa Falls, here:

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Then on the 26th we would leave for Van Zyl’s Pass :wink:

Van Zyl’s is only 150km from Epupa Falls. So we if we left at say 08h00 took our time we should be there at say….11h00…

From Epupa to Van Zyl’s 150km (road pretty bumpy single track) at Okangwati there is Diesel available butnot reliable. There is also a shop or 2 you can buy some supplies like tinfood and some cooldrinks.About 50km from Van Zyls, I spot a Double Cab LC GP plates, pic up travelling from VZ’s so I pull over and ask the gent where he is going? He tells me he was on his way to VZ’s pass and had x2 flat tyres, side wall! So I ask him where he is from? He replies ‘Rivonia’…..Rivonia, you come all this way by yourself, from Rivonia? And now you have to turn back 50km from Van Zyls and go home…..! No mate, you turn your vehicle around and follow us. The 70 Cruiser has x2 spare wheels! So he turnes his Cruiser around and followed us. We stopped for lunch and formaly introduced ourselves……Franken(on the forum also now), was his name and had to join us for the next 5 day’s.
We have since become very good friends and will be joining us again on the next trip :thumbup:

On the road from Epupa / low level bridge with markers, in the rainy season this can be a problem….

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Road to VZ’s

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This was Franken, returning home…..

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Some local Himba woman along the road

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Slow going over rocky sections

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Rocky area on the way!

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On the right track :thumbup:

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Nice seize Boabab!

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Campsite up ahead!

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We arrived at the camp site at 14h00 looked around and rather decided to camp on route closer to VZ’s pass.

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Beautiful sunset

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Viewpoint overlooking Marienfluss….

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Breathtaking view :thumbup:

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Ha, ha, that’s exactly why we are here…. :lol: :lol: :lol:

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Beautiful views while descending!

Tx to my co-pilot & wify Danelle / OOOODS who walked the entire VZ’s removing all sharp dangerous rocks that could damage the tyres…..mwa :clap: :clap: :clap:
Made it :thumbup:

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rom the bottom of Van Zyls we planned to travel up via Marienfluss to Camp Syncro which becomes a dead end into the Kunene river bordering Angola. A 50km drive, wher we planned to camp for the night.

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A beautiful drive with mountains on either side!

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These bare patches are called f…. …… let’s see who know’s what they are called and how they are formed!

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Road to Syncro Camp

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View’s of the Kunene

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Quick swim just to refresh!

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There are x2 campsites in the area the community camp and Syncro Camp, we opted for Syncro. Nice and clean with hot water and friendly staff. R60.00 per person :thumbup: Overlooking the river!

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No swimming is allowed here as there are crocs around :!:

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We were the only people camping here. Later that afternoon another vehicle arrived (a Swiss couple) who we also travelling alone with a rental LR……We later invited them over for supper, as they had no meat or fresh supplies with them…. We introduced the to Boerewors and Pap :lol:

which they had never tasted before and loved it!!! So happend that they were quite afraid of travelling alone so I asked invited them also to travel with us, as they dearly wanted to see Serra Cafema, which was on our route. So now we had Franken and the Swiss couple Ariella & Stephan.
This week we recieved an email from them:
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Hi Mark, Danelle & KiaraIt’s so nice to hear about you.
As we arrived home we had almost a heart attack because of the weather – it was cold (-5 degrees), snowing and foggy!! it tooked us really a few days to accept that we are back home. Namibia was for us such an great experiance, also because we met you guys. We still have some great moments in mind, beeing to the dunes up in Hartmanns Valley 🙂
At the moment I try to sort out a few pictures to send it to you but it’s not that easy with about 2000 I took in total….

And what about your plans to go to Namibia again? If possible – and of course if it would be ok for all of you – it would be graet to meet you on the trip. Because that’s for shure, we haven’t been the last time to namibia! But next time not with a LandRover again… 🙂

Would be nice to stay in touch – regards to Debbie and Sieg and of course to Franken.

Greetings from Winterthur
Ariella and Stephan

From here we would head South and take a short-cut over the Harmansberge to Serra Cafema. The route is marked on the GPS ‘private road’

From Syncro Camp we headed South again (as you can’t go further North), and decided to cross the Hartmansberge. There is a ‘private road only’ that we found on the GPS that crosses the mountains, found out it was pretty hectic at stages but after Van Zyls proved to be a breez. A bit of a short-cut. There is also a deserted mine (granite) along the route. Beautiful route I may add :wink:

Once over the Harmansberge mountains we would go North to Serra Cafema the most North Western part of Namibia :

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Rocky road…

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Deserted mine.

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If you have ever wondered what it feels like on the moon…..take a drive over this mountain range :!:

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Riverbed brunch

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In the backround you see the beautiful mountains of Angola :thumbup:

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The wies are spectacular, also you can see 100’s of fairy circles!

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On route to Serra Cafema Lodge we came across some nice dunes :thumbup:

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Serra Cafema Lodge: we parked, walked into the lodge and were greeted by a happy camp manager. He asked: did you have a good flight? Flight….we drove here! Nobody drives here he says!!! Well come in for some drinks! He was obviously expecting some ‘fly in’ customers :wink:

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Nice lodge, but at 1000 USD per person per night we decided to head for the hills….

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We were then directed to a riverbed we could camp at about 10km form the lodge. So off we went!

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What an awsome place to camp :thumbup:

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From here we would travel to Orupembe, verby Oranje Drom, en dan na :wave: :wave: Puros :wave: :wave: :wave:

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Now where was I? Oh yes….on the way to Orupembe and then Puros!The road from Serra Cafema was…, a hard ride, jeep rack & with corrogation for wich felt like 100’s of km. Having said that the scenary was good with springbuck and gemsbuck scattered all over the place. Quit amazing how these animal survive in this barren land!

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Then past ‘blou drom’ which must have been painted by a Freestate farmer :lol:

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Gemsbuck all around!

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Spot the chair….

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The HUGE TOWN Orupembe :lol: :lol: :lol: We were looking forward to a nice restaurant and wine :lol: :lol: :lol:
The police station…..

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The One Stop Shop and only :wink:

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Franken saying his goodbuy’s :wave: :wave: :wave: as he headed to Etosha

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And the Swiss couple off to Etosha :wave: :wave: :wave:

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So off we continued to Puros :thumbup:

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Riverbed driving again….me at my happiest :!: :!: :!:

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Kiara (4) named it the ‘Fairy Mountain’ as we drove around it!

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That afternoon after lots of driving we decided to call it a day and camp in the riverbed about 30km from Puros.

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That evening (Kiara’s (5) idea, we went looking for ellies down the river bed…

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Not long and we found some fesh spoor :thumbup:

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The next morning we left for Puros, a short drive.

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Heavy rains in this area cause lots of trees to be uprooted like this.

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Beautiful landscape

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Office / reception at Puros campsite. Each site has running water, toilet, and shower (donkey) There are only 7/8 sites, however if they are full you can make a plan as the sites are spread out quite far apart :thumbup:

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Campsite

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If you want to see LOTS of ELLIES…..this is the place to be. They even come right into your campsite :thumbup:

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This fella caught us by surprise, as did many others. I could not take any more pics in fear of irritating him, however he came approx. 1m from myself and Kiara…..stood there for a few mins and I then had to chase him away :!: :!: :!:

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We all have our duties when camping…..Kiara’s favourite :o:

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IMO really worth staying here 2/3 nights :wave: :wave: :wave:

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We noticed that the elephants in Namibia are not as destructive as the elephants found in Botswana and RSA. This one was very curious though. It was an fairly old Bull. Everywhere in the campsite, there are sign boards advising visitors to pack away all food and interesting things, as these elephants do wander into your campsite and would like to see all that you have. Most of the elephants that we came accross, would only look at us and walk straight past.When we were in the “Brandberg Mountain area”, we spoke to the resort owners at the “White Lady”, who advised that their elephants regularly demolish their campsite and garden. But it is the elphants domain and as they had made their resort in the middle of the elephant territory, they live with it. :thumbup:

They have made their peace with the elephants :thumbup:

In and around Puros, there is plenty of game to be viewed.From Puros we headed South through Puros Canyon , Hoanib Canyon and then to Sesfontein where we would refuel. The scenary changes here from km to km once out of the canyon’s!

IMO this would have been one of the highlites of the trip :thumbup:

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Lots of river crossings in this canyon all year around!

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At the end of the Canyon there is a lodge being built, we took a left there and headed for the Hoanib Canyon!

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GPS said ‘Thick sand’ and it was!!!

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Beginning of Hoanib Canyon :!: :wink:

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Lunch.

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At the end of the Canyon the GPS says ‘extreme dust’, trust me like powder :!: Here is a good time to keep your windows ‘closed’ :o: :o: :o:

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At Sesfontein, there is a garage…..however luckily we both required diesel, as there was no petrol available :o:

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From there we headed to the ‘WARM QUELLE’

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New Year’s eve :thumbup:

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From Warm Quelle, some 800m South back into the Hoanib riverbed :thumbup:

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GPS se weer ‘extreme dust’ gou,gou is die vensters toe :thumbup:

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Breakkie :!:

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GPS Warnings: Caution Flooding, one can see why!!!

These banks are 10m+ high :!:

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Well getting of the end of our trip (nearly)…..there was some awsome river bed driving done for the day :thumbup:

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Place called Little Serengeti…..I soon found out why! Shocked bu the change in scenery, one again :!: :wink:

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Across the field and back into the riverbed, till we got to the Vetenary control point. The sand here was extremely thick….many a time in 4×4 low 1 gear :thumbup:

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Heading for Xhorixas South of Etosha we came :thumbup: across this little fella crossing the road and Kiara had to help it out of danger

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Off towards Outjo! Nice little town and Otjiwarango

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Luch stop in Ojiwarango just on the way out of town

This one is for Warthog – Hennie, tx for your trip report you did last year. It certainly inspired us to go on this trip also :thumbup:

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On the way to Gobabis we ran into some heavy rain!

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At Gobabis we stayed over next to the dam

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Supper at the Lodge, which used to be a prison. Nice atmosphere :thumbup: …..Actually I felt quite at home, not sure about the others :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:

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